Tutorial: How To Make A Boppy Slip Cover

Here's a much cheaper alternative to buying a slipcover for your boppy. I made this using a pattern I found at Vanilla Joy. She found it at Economical Baby, whose blog has since been removed, and was smart enough to save it to her computer! I did a zipper along the seam as opposed to across the underside like the pattern calls for so my instructions are different.

For my version you need:

Pages 2-7 of the pattern printed twice
24" zipper
Sewing machine
Flexible measuring tape

About a yard of farbic or 1/2 yard each of 2 different fabrics (print pattern first and measure to get exact amount)

I made mine before I was doing my craft blog so I didn't take pictures of the process. Luckily my friend made one and she let me take pictures of hers while I was helping her with the zipper part.

Tape the pattern together so the grey areas are hidden. This is what you'll use to cut your fabric out on the fold. Ignore the stitch line because it's not accurate.
Here are her two pieces of fabric already cut out (note: they're both still folded in this picture)

Unfold each and pin the "front" of the boppy cover (see picture below) with right sides together and measure and mark 12" out from the center in each direction. This is your zipper's length. Now mark 2" out from those marks on each side. Using a 1/2" seam allowance (note: the original pattern says to use 1/4" but I liked it tighter-fitting), sew a regular stitch starting at your outtermost mark and then switch to a basting stitch at the zipper's mark. Baste to the opposite side's zipper mark then regular stitch those last two inches. Sounds harder than it is. Refer to my throw pillow cover tute for the same instructions worded a bit differently :)

Once your basting stitch is done, iron the seam open.
Then pin your zipper, with the teeth directly on the seam, to the seam allowance only (not to the cover) and sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can using your zipper foot. You will stitch a straight line on each side of the zipper.

Once that is done you can do what I did on my throw pillow cover tutorial and just fold the seam closed with the zipper sandwiched inside it and sew a line on each end of the zipper from the raw edge to the basting stitch. This way you don't see any stitching around the zipper when you turn it right side out.

Now get out your seam ripper and rip the basting stitch from the right side.

This is what it will look like if you use an invisible zipper, otherwise you see the teeth which is fine too.

After this step I gave it back to her to finish so I don't have any more pictures but from here you just turn it so right sides are together again and sew around the rest of it with a 1/2" seam allowance and you're done!

I'd love to hear how it turns out for you!

Tutorial: How To Make A Zippered Throw Pillow Cover

Meet Debs.

She's my best friend since the 9th grade.

This is her smiling big because she loves me and her new pillows so much!

She recently bought a new couch and some fabric to make the pillow covers.

She's never sewn anything before in her life.

So we got together and she sewed that sweet looking dark patterned pillow on the right!

She did an awesome job!! I was seriously impressed.

I then made the 2 striped ones and took pictures along the way so I could share the instructions with all you nice people.

So here goes (all you need is some fabric and a zipper - sizes based on the pillows you're using):

Cut two home decor weight fabric squares. We measured some other pillow cases to get the desired size.













Pin them together on one side only.















Trim so they match perfectly.















Sew a basting stitch about a 1/2" from the side (this just means you increase the length of the stitch so this seam is easy to rip open later). I actually start out with a regular stitch then baste for the length of the zipper then finish with a regular stitch. So the two ends are stitched normal so that part doesn't come apart when you're done. Clear as mud?













This picture might help you understand. See the short stitches in the beginning that get longer where my zipper will start?
















Once that's sewn, iron the seam open.















Get out your zipper (whatever length you need).















Now you will pin one side of it to the seam allowance. Not to the seam allowance AND the main fabric. Just the seam allowance. Line the "teeth" up with the seam.















After one side is pinned, pin the other side.













Use your zipper foot to sew the zipper on to the seam allowance only, removing the pins as you go. You'll sew a straight line down each side. Because of the direction of my stinking zipper foot I always have the bunched up fabric on the inside and it's a pain.

















I like to get the needle as close as possible to the zipper teeth.
















See how now I have my basting stitch and my stitch line from sewing the zipper on?














Now it's time to rip open the basting stitch so get out your seam ripper and break a few basting stitches from the wrong side then turn it around to the right side to finish ripping them all open.
















Once you're done you can unzip the zipper and make sure it looks right.
















Next to each end of the zipper you'll have to sew the seam allowances together. First find the spot just above the top of the zipper and just below the zig zag edge. Notice how I didn't move the zipper pull out of the way like I should have.















Close the seam allowance like pictured below














Sew a short line across, stopping just before you hit the stitch line you made in the beginning (the one you made just before basting)













Repeat at the other end of the zipper and it should look like this
















Before pinning, unzip your zipper (take it from me and Debs who learned the hard way), then you can pin all the way around the rest of the pillow.


















Sew 1/4" from all 3 edges then snip the corners so it's less bulky when you turn it

And it will look like this:

Cuteness!

Tutorial: How To Make A Baby Wrap Part 3

***Please always use extra caution when wearing baby (especially newborns and sleeping babies) and do your own research on the safety issues as that's not what is covered in this tutorial. I know a few things for sure; make sure baby's face is visible, their chin is off their chest and please note that jersey wraps should not be used for a back carry hold.

I know what you're thinking. "We get it already crazy lady"! I know. This is the THIRD baby wrap tutorial. But don't worry, 3 is where I make myself draw a line! And trust me it's not easy... I wanted to do a 4th binkie leash tute and restrained myself. Anywho, this wrap is different in that it's one-sided. I've also tweaked a few little things here and there making this one my favorite of them all.

This one-sided version is easier to make and since there are less layers baby isn't as hot. Plus I always make things reversible (baby wrap, carseat canopy, nursing cover, boppy slipcover) then wish I didn't bother since I only ever use one side of it anyway.

***You will need 5.5-6 yards of jersey knit fabric (the edges will curl when stretched) and a piece of cotton fabric that is 22"x22" for your front support panel. Wash and dry all of it then iron the cotton fabric.

Lay out your jersey fabric and take a deep breath... this may take a while.

Trim the long edge (the 5.5 yard side) if you want to since it's usually holey or discolored. Or leave it if you don't care (after washing and drying, the holes should dissapear).Then when that's done, measure 20" from the side you just cut and cut your first wrap. You should be able to make 1-2 more wraps from your remaining fabric.After it's all cut, trim the 20" edges so they're nice and straight.
Now find the center so you can mark it with pins.
Place pins in the top and bottom of the center to mark it. Measure from edge to edge where the pins are so you can see how big to cut your fabric panel. Keep it 22" wide and trim height to whatever measurement you came up with in the previous step.

Iron the shorter sides of your fabric panel about 1/2" under. Using the pins you added to the wrap earlier as a guide, line the panel up with the center of the wrap. If your wrap is the same on both sides, place the panel face down on the side of the wrap that the edges curl away from. If your wrap has a pattern on one side, place the panel face down on the wrong side of the wrap. Pin panel to the wrap along both the top and bottom raw edges, lining it up perfectly.Sew 1/4" from the top and bottom edges. Turn it right side out then iron the seams flat.Once ironed, pin the sides to the wrap so you can topstitch around the entire panel closing the sides.When topstitching the sides of the panel, stitch as close to the edge as you can but for the top and bottom of the panel you don't need to be as close to the edge.
Yay! See my video demo here to put it on and put baby in it.